It's been over a week since I completed my trip along Route 66 and the PCH, and I'm back home now, and back at work. It seems so long since I was riding into Santa Monica, and then on to San Francisco, but it was only a short time ago. It's really hard to believe.
I thought that it would be a good idea, now that the trip is over, the dust has settled, and normality has resumed in my life (kinda), to look back and review what went well, and what I would do differently, if I were ever given the chance to do it all over again.
First of all, I've got so say that there was the potential for the trip to go badly wrong: bike breakdowns, or an accident; meeting the "wrong" kind of people; or meeting no people at all! etc. etc. Thankfully, nothing like that happened. I believe that was down to a mixture of good planning, having my wits about me most of the time, and of course, a bit of good luck too.
So this is the first of a few articles that I'll post to look at various aspects of the trip and how it worked out. Hopefully this might give an insight for others planning a similar trip. I'll cover things like riding gear, accommodation, how the planning worked, and the various bits of gadgetry that I took with me. For this post though, I'll concentrate on:
The Bike:
"Black Beauty", my brand spanking new Harley Davidson ElegctraGlide Classic, was perfect for the job of transporting me and 3 weeks worth of supplies over most of the 3600+ miles that we travelled together.
The panniers and tourpack fitted everything with ease, and the purpose made bags that fit inside really helped there. The seat was so comfy that I was never troubled with numb-bum syndrome nor back ache. If I were doing this trip two-up then I would recommend going for the ElectraGlide Ultra, which has a few extra amenities and home comforts for a pillion passenger, plus additional luggage capacity in the form of a rack on top of the tourpack, which would likely be needed. But as a single rider, the Classic was perfectly suitable.
The bike is big, long and heavy, with a big lazy engine - just right for highway riding, long fast sweeping curves, and OK for puttering about town. The only time that it struggled was when negotiating the more twisty roads, like the Oatman Highway. Then it's size and weight acted against it. Wrestling it around the bends became tiring, and the gear box, which has a decidedly agricultural feel to it, was very heavy to operate. One redeeming feature though is the 96 cubic inch (1584cc) v-twin engine. This cannot be called a responsive motor by any stretch of the imagination, but has so much low-down torque that if you do find yourself mid-bend in too high a gear, it is very forgiving and will haul you round and out of trouble at very low revs.
That big, air-cooled engine also generates a lot of heat between your legs. This is most welcome when the weather is on the cooler side, but when sitting at lights when the temperature has climbed into the 90s or more, it can get very uncomfortable, until you get moving again!
I spent more on fuel than I had anticipated for a number of reasons: Firstly, I did more miles than I had planned. Secondly, due to riding into a strong headwind for much of the way, the Harley's fuel consumption was higher that I had thought it would be. And lastly, fuel prices (whilst still half what we pay here in the UK) had increased. Those three factors together meant that for the whole trip I got through about 91 US gallons (346 litres) of unleaded, costing $366. Remarkably, as the whole trip was 3661 miles, so this works out at exactly 10c per mile on gas!
In conclusion then, there is no such thing as a perfect bike for all occasions and conditions, but the Harley came close for most of the riding I did on this trip, and being classic American iron, I can think of no other bike that I'd rather have riden.
Would I rent one in America again? Yes.
Would I buy myself one? Probably not.
Showing posts with label Route 66. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Route 66. Show all posts
Monday, 16 May 2011
Monday, 9 May 2011
Safely Home
A long couple of days travelling and I have arrived back home safely, after an uneventful journey.
I decided to travel back to the UK from Seattle as the San Francisco flights were looking very busy. So first flight of the day was north to Washington State. I got to Seattle by 9am, and faced a long wait for the BA flight to London that evening. At least the airport had free Wi-Fi so that helped pass the time.
Compared to Heathrow's T5, many of the American airports (like Seattle) are very sparse, with little to help you pass the time. T5 is basically a shopping mall built on top of a baggage system, that happens to have some gates for the aircraft to pull up to. At least there's plenty to do to help you spend a few hours.
Eventually, the time passed and the check in desk opened. The lovely lady who checked me in gave me a nice seat in Club (Business) Class, and I went air-side, to the bar to spend the last of my dollars.
The flight back to the UK passed quickly as I slept through most of it, and I was in Heathrow by lunchtime on Sunday, ready for my last flight of the day back to Newcastle. Once again, a quiet uneventful flight.
It was lovely to walk out of the arrivals hall, with all my luggage having safely made it as well, to see Gillian, Simon and Nathan waiting for me! A short drive later and I was home at last, in time for dinner.
I decided to travel back to the UK from Seattle as the San Francisco flights were looking very busy. So first flight of the day was north to Washington State. I got to Seattle by 9am, and faced a long wait for the BA flight to London that evening. At least the airport had free Wi-Fi so that helped pass the time.
Compared to Heathrow's T5, many of the American airports (like Seattle) are very sparse, with little to help you pass the time. T5 is basically a shopping mall built on top of a baggage system, that happens to have some gates for the aircraft to pull up to. At least there's plenty to do to help you spend a few hours.
Eventually, the time passed and the check in desk opened. The lovely lady who checked me in gave me a nice seat in Club (Business) Class, and I went air-side, to the bar to spend the last of my dollars.
The flight back to the UK passed quickly as I slept through most of it, and I was in Heathrow by lunchtime on Sunday, ready for my last flight of the day back to Newcastle. Once again, a quiet uneventful flight.
It was lovely to walk out of the arrivals hall, with all my luggage having safely made it as well, to see Gillian, Simon and Nathan waiting for me! A short drive later and I was home at last, in time for dinner.
Saturday, 30 April 2011
Day 11: Flagstaff to Williams via Grand Canyon
Last night I went into downtown Flagstaff for dinner and a drink. It's a pretty cool place with plenty of restaurants and bars, and pretty lively. First I went to the Flagstaff brewery. I had a nice beer in there, but it was a bit quiet, so I ended up sitting at the bar in a neighbouring Irish bar. I got chatting to Bob, sitting next to me; and it turned out that he to was doing a bike tour around America; except he had quit his job and was taking 2 years out to do it. Nice! He was pretty knowledgeable about the places I had been to and where I was going, and recommended Rods Steak House when I got to Williams.
There's a big event at home today: Yes, it's Simon's birthday. I hear they had a street party in his honour. I hope you had a good one! There was also a wedding on I believe, so William and Kate, I hope it works out for you. Talking of Simon and birthdays, he had a t-shirt made especially for me for my birthday to wear on this trip. Unfortunately it was left at home, I'm such an idiot. Anyway Gillian thoughtfully sent me a photograph to post here. This way lots more people will get to see it:
Today is a day off Route 66, as I head north towards the Grand Canyon, but on the way is Sunset Crater, a volcano that erupted only about 1000 years ago. You can go up the volcanoo and see the crater if you have the time and are up for a long hike. I didn't, so I bought some postcards instead!
A guy said to me today: "There are only two types of bike; those that have been dropped, and those that are going to be dropped". That was after he helped me pick my bike up. In my haste to hop off and take a few more pictures, I hadn't put the stand down properly and over she went! Luckily, as I was still astride her at the time, I was able to slow her descent to the ground although there was no way I could stop it altogether. After this kind sole helped me pick her up again I was relieved to see that there was no damage - not even a scratch.
After a good 30-odd mile ride around the Sunset crater National Park, it was time to head off to the Grand Canyon. Entering the park from the eastern end of the Southern Rim, the views were spectacular, and the was a 40 mile ride along the rim, with countless photo ops. Here's just a few that I took today:
The roads around here are great for motorcycling: well maintained smooth tarmac, which twists and turns, rises and falls, it's fantastic! The weather has been sunny and dry for the last few days, although pleasantly cool (in the 70s). In fact it's so dry that I had to buy some ChapStick as my lips were starting to dry out. I now have one more thing to add to my morning routine: put on lipstick, and re-apply regularly!
After a number of hours at the Canyon, it was getting on and time to head back south for Williams, and rejoin Route 66. The road to Williams is dead straight from the Canyon for about 50 miles, so a bit dull after the riding I'd done earlier.
Williams is a small two street cowboy town, and has a really nice feel. I didn't have a room booked, but soon checked into the Route 66 Inn, an old Mom & Pop Motor Lodge right in the middle of town. The room's big enough but could do with refurbishment as it's a bit tatty. Then again, for $39, I don't expect much. It has a bed and bathroom, has Wi-Fi and is clean, so that's good enough for me.
As I was sitting in my room, I heard some familiar voices passing by outside - yes it was Dale, Anthony, Daniel and some of the other Aussies! "We're going to Rods Steak House for dinner" they said, " Come with us". So I did. And then on to the Canyon bar which had Country karaoke going on. It got a bit messy, and I even took to the mic for a number. Hopefully, no one videoed it. What good company they are, we had a blast. Oh, and the steak was to die for - Bob, you were right!
As always, all the photos, and today's route are here:
Time for bed now, as there's the Route 66 Fun Run leaving here tomorrow, heading the same way as me - about 800 cars and bikes - and I want to get away before they do. Overtaking them would be a nightmare!
Today's Mileage: 196
Total Trip Mileage: 2289
There's a big event at home today: Yes, it's Simon's birthday. I hear they had a street party in his honour. I hope you had a good one! There was also a wedding on I believe, so William and Kate, I hope it works out for you. Talking of Simon and birthdays, he had a t-shirt made especially for me for my birthday to wear on this trip. Unfortunately it was left at home, I'm such an idiot. Anyway Gillian thoughtfully sent me a photograph to post here. This way lots more people will get to see it:
 | |
| ...and the back, |
The snow capped San Francisco Moutains, from Sunset Crater National Park
A guy said to me today: "There are only two types of bike; those that have been dropped, and those that are going to be dropped". That was after he helped me pick my bike up. In my haste to hop off and take a few more pictures, I hadn't put the stand down properly and over she went! Luckily, as I was still astride her at the time, I was able to slow her descent to the ground although there was no way I could stop it altogether. After this kind sole helped me pick her up again I was relieved to see that there was no damage - not even a scratch.
The lava flow from the volcano, in the background.
After a good 30-odd mile ride around the Sunset crater National Park, it was time to head off to the Grand Canyon. Entering the park from the eastern end of the Southern Rim, the views were spectacular, and the was a 40 mile ride along the rim, with countless photo ops. Here's just a few that I took today:
The roads around here are great for motorcycling: well maintained smooth tarmac, which twists and turns, rises and falls, it's fantastic! The weather has been sunny and dry for the last few days, although pleasantly cool (in the 70s). In fact it's so dry that I had to buy some ChapStick as my lips were starting to dry out. I now have one more thing to add to my morning routine: put on lipstick, and re-apply regularly!
After a number of hours at the Canyon, it was getting on and time to head back south for Williams, and rejoin Route 66. The road to Williams is dead straight from the Canyon for about 50 miles, so a bit dull after the riding I'd done earlier.
Williams is a small two street cowboy town, and has a really nice feel. I didn't have a room booked, but soon checked into the Route 66 Inn, an old Mom & Pop Motor Lodge right in the middle of town. The room's big enough but could do with refurbishment as it's a bit tatty. Then again, for $39, I don't expect much. It has a bed and bathroom, has Wi-Fi and is clean, so that's good enough for me.
As I was sitting in my room, I heard some familiar voices passing by outside - yes it was Dale, Anthony, Daniel and some of the other Aussies! "We're going to Rods Steak House for dinner" they said, " Come with us". So I did. And then on to the Canyon bar which had Country karaoke going on. It got a bit messy, and I even took to the mic for a number. Hopefully, no one videoed it. What good company they are, we had a blast. Oh, and the steak was to die for - Bob, you were right!
 |
| Anthony and Daniel have a bonding session, having narrowly missed getting into a fight |
 |
| Dale lets rip singing Peggy Sue! |
Time for bed now, as there's the Route 66 Fun Run leaving here tomorrow, heading the same way as me - about 800 cars and bikes - and I want to get away before they do. Overtaking them would be a nightmare!
Today's Mileage: 196
Total Trip Mileage: 2289
Friday, 29 April 2011
Day 10: Gallup to Flagstaff
"... Life's a journey, not a destination, And I just can't tell what tomorrow brings ..."
I had my MP3 player on random during part of the ride today, and this song (Amazing by Aerosmith) came on. For some reason, this line jumped out at me, as it epitomises this trip, and the reasons for doing it. Anyway, enough of that.....
The Aussies were leaving early this morning for their long trip to the Grand Canyon. I went down to wave them off, and got myself ready and packed up the bike.
So, ten days into the rip I am now past the halfway mark, and I've got packing down to a fine art, and (touch wood) know where everything is. My clothes go in the left pannier. The hardware; camera bag, chargers and leads, reference books and maps, all go in the right. The stuff that I'm likely to need for the day ahead, plus my laptop is in the tourpack on the back. Even my jacket pockets are worked out: lower right - wallet, safely zipped in.; lower left - bike keys, also zipped up; top right - the iGotU GPS tracker; and upper left, any other small items that I might need (ear plugs, pen, etc). This might sound like I've got a touch of OCD (maybe I have), but it means that everything is to hand, and there's no panics because I can't find my wallet, or whatever.
My first port of call today was to Wal-Mart - I desperately needed some new socks! These procured I set off, heading out of New Mexico, and into Arizona; state number 7 of my trip.
I didn't know at the time, but I had gained another hour. Arizona's in the Moutain Time Zone, but they don't use daylight saving, so in winter they are the same time as the other states in that time zone, but in summer they are at the same time as California.
My plan today was to visit the Painted Desert and Petrified Forest. The desert is very spectacular, and once again I was faced with numerous photo opportunities, most of which I took! It's very difficult to capture something of this scale in a photo, though. Here's a few that I took today:
In these parts, much of old Route 66 has been replaced by the Interstate, and so no longer exists. In this picture you can see trucks on the new Interstate in the background, but the line of telegraph poles marks the path of the original Route 66 roadway:
The petrified forest left me a bit cold, I've got to admit. I kind of imagined a forest of trees that had been turned to stone. What it is though is a load of logs strewn about that have been transformed into rock over many millions of years:
OK maybe I was expecting too much!
A wrong turn out of the Petrified Forest State park cost me about 40 miles of riding until I got back to where I should have been, but the roads were good and the scenery breathtaking, so it was no big deal.
Next stop on the journey today was the Jack Rabbit Trading Company. This has been a major stopping point on the Route for many years. Plenty have wondered how, when the Interstate was built, this little shop got its own entry/exit ramps: there really is nothing else around. It turns out that at that time it had just been bought by a retiring Senator - maybe he pulled a few strings?
A little detour took me through Winslow Arizona, as made famous by a lyric in an Eagles song (Take it Easy?) - "... standing on a corner in Winslow Arizona ....". There is a sign on that supposed corner, and many people have had their photo taken there. I'm not one of them though, not being a big Eagles fan.
Finally, before reaching Flagstaff I took a little detour through Winona (Don't forget Winona!), and then into Flagstaff from the north.
Wow, three song references in one blog post!
Tonight I shall check out Historic Downtown Flagstaff, as theres a brewery that's been recommended to me.
Tomorrow I'm going to look at a rather large hole in the ground.
Here's today's route and all of the photos from the day:
Today's Mileage: 260
Total Trip Mileage:2094
I had my MP3 player on random during part of the ride today, and this song (Amazing by Aerosmith) came on. For some reason, this line jumped out at me, as it epitomises this trip, and the reasons for doing it. Anyway, enough of that.....
The Aussies were leaving early this morning for their long trip to the Grand Canyon. I went down to wave them off, and got myself ready and packed up the bike.
So, ten days into the rip I am now past the halfway mark, and I've got packing down to a fine art, and (touch wood) know where everything is. My clothes go in the left pannier. The hardware; camera bag, chargers and leads, reference books and maps, all go in the right. The stuff that I'm likely to need for the day ahead, plus my laptop is in the tourpack on the back. Even my jacket pockets are worked out: lower right - wallet, safely zipped in.; lower left - bike keys, also zipped up; top right - the iGotU GPS tracker; and upper left, any other small items that I might need (ear plugs, pen, etc). This might sound like I've got a touch of OCD (maybe I have), but it means that everything is to hand, and there's no panics because I can't find my wallet, or whatever.
My first port of call today was to Wal-Mart - I desperately needed some new socks! These procured I set off, heading out of New Mexico, and into Arizona; state number 7 of my trip.
A last view of New Mexico as I left
I didn't know at the time, but I had gained another hour. Arizona's in the Moutain Time Zone, but they don't use daylight saving, so in winter they are the same time as the other states in that time zone, but in summer they are at the same time as California.
My plan today was to visit the Painted Desert and Petrified Forest. The desert is very spectacular, and once again I was faced with numerous photo opportunities, most of which I took! It's very difficult to capture something of this scale in a photo, though. Here's a few that I took today:
In these parts, much of old Route 66 has been replaced by the Interstate, and so no longer exists. In this picture you can see trucks on the new Interstate in the background, but the line of telegraph poles marks the path of the original Route 66 roadway:
The petrified forest left me a bit cold, I've got to admit. I kind of imagined a forest of trees that had been turned to stone. What it is though is a load of logs strewn about that have been transformed into rock over many millions of years:
A wrong turn out of the Petrified Forest State park cost me about 40 miles of riding until I got back to where I should have been, but the roads were good and the scenery breathtaking, so it was no big deal.
Next stop on the journey today was the Jack Rabbit Trading Company. This has been a major stopping point on the Route for many years. Plenty have wondered how, when the Interstate was built, this little shop got its own entry/exit ramps: there really is nothing else around. It turns out that at that time it had just been bought by a retiring Senator - maybe he pulled a few strings?
Signs all along the way had been advertising the Jack Rabbit store, and now I had reached it!
A little detour took me through Winslow Arizona, as made famous by a lyric in an Eagles song (Take it Easy?) - "... standing on a corner in Winslow Arizona ....". There is a sign on that supposed corner, and many people have had their photo taken there. I'm not one of them though, not being a big Eagles fan.
Finally, before reaching Flagstaff I took a little detour through Winona (Don't forget Winona!), and then into Flagstaff from the north.
Wow, three song references in one blog post!
Tonight I shall check out Historic Downtown Flagstaff, as theres a brewery that's been recommended to me.
Tomorrow I'm going to look at a rather large hole in the ground.
Here's today's route and all of the photos from the day:
Today's Mileage: 260
Total Trip Mileage:2094
Tuesday, 26 April 2011
Day 7: Amarillo - Las Vegas, NM
After a good drink and chin-wag with Croc and the Aussies last night, I had to set my alarm nice and early in order to make sure I was up in time for the 8 o'clock start - yes, I'm back on a timetable! It was chilly when we left, but I knew that as soon as the sun rose higher it would get soon heat up, so decided to go with the warm weather gear from the outset this morning. Most of the Aussies were travelling in cars, but there were 8 bikes, and I was going with them.
Our first stop was after a short ride to the Cadillac Ranch. Here, there are about 8 or ten half buried Cadillacs, nose down, and aerosol spray cans are left lying around so that visitors can decorate them. So the display is constantly changing:
A little further on and another photo op at Magnolia Filling Station. This place actually pre-dates Route 66 by a couple of years, and once again has been restored to how it used to be.
It was nice to be riding with a group for a change, and I appreciated being invited to tag along. I was great to have some company at the various stops along the way, and to have someone else take my picture for a change! It also reminded me of the downside of being in a group - the extra time it takes to do anything, for example at fuel stops you can't fill up and leave - you have to wait for all 8 bikes to refuel. Same with photo stops or when stopping for lunch - you can't continue your journey until everyone is ready to go.
Moving along we came to Adrian Texas. This is officially the mid-point of the route - it's the same distance to Chicago as it is to Los Angeles. Time for a photo at the sign marking this point, and coffee and pie at Fran's MidPoint Cafe. Fran was the inspiration behind the Flo character in Disney's movie Cars. She's a sweetheart!
Here I am at the middle of the Route - but not yet the middle of my trip. Not sure why I'm standing like that?
And the obligatory group shot with all the Aussies, one American, one Zimbabwean and one Brit. I'm front right.
Just before we left Texas we visited Glenco, a ghost town, and just one of many examples of how the new Interstates affected towns along the old Route 66.
And then we were entering New Mexico, and suddenly gained an extra hour as we moved to Mountain Time. This is the sixth state of the nine I'll be visiting this trip.
Lunch was in Tucumcari (Two-come-care-ee). A first for me - I had salad! I really could not face any more fried food, and getting my five a day has been proving challenging. There are some nice murals on the walls of the buildings around town, and also a Route 66 sculpture:
And so it was that we eventually arrived at Santa Rosa, the Ausies' stop for the night. Having said my goodbyes and thanking them for allowing a pom to join them, I set off, once again on my own. A brief visit to Bozo's Auto Museum, and then to drive the 60 or so miles to Las Vegas, New Mexico (the little town with a big name!).
All the time we'd been driving west into a head wind, and this combined with the long, long climb out of Santa Rosa meant the bike wasn't able to maintain 70mph in top (6th) gear. I started to worry that there might be something wrong, but when I turned off north for Las Vegas the head wind became a side wind, and only then did I realise just how strong it was. I drove the remaining 40 miles canted over 45 degrees to the left, just to go straight!. No wonder the bike was struggling riding into it!
Las Vegas NM is the complete opposite of its namesake further west. It is a quiet, old fashioned little western town. The hotel I am staying at tonight is the Plaza, built in 1882,and has a very Victorian feel to it. I rather like it after some of the impersonal hotel rooms I've slept in recently. Also, it was used in the Coen Brothers movie No Country for Old Men (what am I doing here then?) for the hotel scenes (even though the film was set in Texas).
Having unpacked I made my way to the hotel bar, as you do, and was chatting to a couple (Joseph and Chtistine) who had a nice little Harley Sportster parked outside. As we chatted a guy walked in and ordered a beer, and then announced that he would buy everyone in the bar a round. We happily accepted, upon which he paid, finished his drink and left. I don't think he'd said a word to anyone other than the barman, who later said he'd never seen him before! How peculiar. Anyway thank you, who every you are!
After that I got talking to a group of business colleagues (Amy, Leah, Lisa, Kevin and Nancy - Hi y'all). They are museum specialists, and were in town looking at how a local state park could improve its displays and exhibits at their visitor centre. After a couple of drinks with them they invited me to join them for dinner which was very kind, and very entertaining, especially when we found all the local restaurants seem to be closed on a Monday. Needless to say, we ended up back in the bar, but my pizza was very good. As well as everything else, I also learned something about American history today!
And now it's time for bed, and tomorrow I head for Albuquerque, where I may run into the Aussies once more.
Today's route and more pictures can be found here:
Today's Mileage: 251
Total Trip Mileage:1514
Our first stop was after a short ride to the Cadillac Ranch. Here, there are about 8 or ten half buried Cadillacs, nose down, and aerosol spray cans are left lying around so that visitors can decorate them. So the display is constantly changing:
A little further on and another photo op at Magnolia Filling Station. This place actually pre-dates Route 66 by a couple of years, and once again has been restored to how it used to be.
It was nice to be riding with a group for a change, and I appreciated being invited to tag along. I was great to have some company at the various stops along the way, and to have someone else take my picture for a change! It also reminded me of the downside of being in a group - the extra time it takes to do anything, for example at fuel stops you can't fill up and leave - you have to wait for all 8 bikes to refuel. Same with photo stops or when stopping for lunch - you can't continue your journey until everyone is ready to go.
Spot the English bike!
Moving along we came to Adrian Texas. This is officially the mid-point of the route - it's the same distance to Chicago as it is to Los Angeles. Time for a photo at the sign marking this point, and coffee and pie at Fran's MidPoint Cafe. Fran was the inspiration behind the Flo character in Disney's movie Cars. She's a sweetheart!
Here I am at the middle of the Route - but not yet the middle of my trip. Not sure why I'm standing like that?
And the obligatory group shot with all the Aussies, one American, one Zimbabwean and one Brit. I'm front right.
Just before we left Texas we visited Glenco, a ghost town, and just one of many examples of how the new Interstates affected towns along the old Route 66.
And then we were entering New Mexico, and suddenly gained an extra hour as we moved to Mountain Time. This is the sixth state of the nine I'll be visiting this trip.
Yes that really is me behind the mask!
Lunch was in Tucumcari (Two-come-care-ee). A first for me - I had salad! I really could not face any more fried food, and getting my five a day has been proving challenging. There are some nice murals on the walls of the buildings around town, and also a Route 66 sculpture:
And so it was that we eventually arrived at Santa Rosa, the Ausies' stop for the night. Having said my goodbyes and thanking them for allowing a pom to join them, I set off, once again on my own. A brief visit to Bozo's Auto Museum, and then to drive the 60 or so miles to Las Vegas, New Mexico (the little town with a big name!).
All the time we'd been driving west into a head wind, and this combined with the long, long climb out of Santa Rosa meant the bike wasn't able to maintain 70mph in top (6th) gear. I started to worry that there might be something wrong, but when I turned off north for Las Vegas the head wind became a side wind, and only then did I realise just how strong it was. I drove the remaining 40 miles canted over 45 degrees to the left, just to go straight!. No wonder the bike was struggling riding into it!
Las Vegas NM is the complete opposite of its namesake further west. It is a quiet, old fashioned little western town. The hotel I am staying at tonight is the Plaza, built in 1882,and has a very Victorian feel to it. I rather like it after some of the impersonal hotel rooms I've slept in recently. Also, it was used in the Coen Brothers movie No Country for Old Men (what am I doing here then?) for the hotel scenes (even though the film was set in Texas).
Having unpacked I made my way to the hotel bar, as you do, and was chatting to a couple (Joseph and Chtistine) who had a nice little Harley Sportster parked outside. As we chatted a guy walked in and ordered a beer, and then announced that he would buy everyone in the bar a round. We happily accepted, upon which he paid, finished his drink and left. I don't think he'd said a word to anyone other than the barman, who later said he'd never seen him before! How peculiar. Anyway thank you, who every you are!
After that I got talking to a group of business colleagues (Amy, Leah, Lisa, Kevin and Nancy - Hi y'all). They are museum specialists, and were in town looking at how a local state park could improve its displays and exhibits at their visitor centre. After a couple of drinks with them they invited me to join them for dinner which was very kind, and very entertaining, especially when we found all the local restaurants seem to be closed on a Monday. Needless to say, we ended up back in the bar, but my pizza was very good. As well as everything else, I also learned something about American history today!
And now it's time for bed, and tomorrow I head for Albuquerque, where I may run into the Aussies once more.
Today's route and more pictures can be found here:
Today's Mileage: 251
Total Trip Mileage:1514
Monday, 25 April 2011
Day 6: Clinton - Amarillo
I was awoken at about 4 this morning by a thunderstorm passing overhead, but luckily it had passed by the time I woke properly at 7. I opened the curtains only to be greeted by a dank miserable drizzly day.
I packed up, had breakfast and then wandered over to the Route 66 Museum for it's opening time of 9. There was no sign of life. Then it dawned on me; it is Sunday today, and the museum doesn't open until 1 on a Sunday. Well I couldn't hang around for 4 hours, so I reluctantly had to give it a miss.
The weather did not look like getting any better, but I set off taking the old Route 66 roads. I soon decided that this was not the best idea today, the worn out concrete surface was slick and slippery, and a couple of times the back wheel started to slide out on bends. Discretion got the better of me - I could do without any more buttock-clenching moments - and I decided that I should take the interstate for a bit until the weather dried up.
This was disappointing, but it did mean that I made good time. Once on the Interstate I set the cruise control (that's right, this thing has cruise control!) to 70, and slabbed it through the remainder of Oklahoma, and into Texas.
Through this last part of Oklahoma the land had been flat for as far as the eye could see in all directions, but entering Texas, things started to change to a more rugged terrain, which was much more interesting to look at. I had hoped that the weather would also improve on entering Texas, but that wouldn't happen for a while yet.
I did make a couple of detours off the Interstate though when I spotted this old, but restored gas station in McLean:
And also this deliberately leaning water tower in Grants:
By now, things had started to improve weatherwise, and by the time I was 30 miles from Amarillo the clouds started to lift, then break up, and eventually disappear, leaving a nice sunny day with temperatures in the high 70s.
As I'd been on the freeway for most of today, I had made good time and arrived in Amarillo soon after lunchtime. Now, I've got to say that I had no problem finding Amarillo at all. It's pretty well sign posted, and I didn't have to stop to ask for directions once, so why Tony Christie had so much trouble getting here I just don't know.
I went straight to the hotel and was lucky that my room was ready. I'm staying at the Ambassador a rather nice hotel that Bob 'Croc' Lile booked for me at the special Route 66 rate of, yes, $66. As it was still early, and the weather was now good, I took a little side trip to Palo Duro Canyon, around 20 miles south. It was quite spectacular, but I suspect only a taster of what is to come later on the trip.
Riding the winding roads along the edge of the Canyon, and the down almost to the bottom is one of the great biking experiences, with the sun on my back and the wind in my hair, this is what it's all about!
Also staying at the hotel tonight is a group of over 50 Aussies who are doing the trip, mostly in cars but also about 8 bikes. Croc had a reception for them this evening at his art gallery, and was kind enough to invite me along:: they seem like a good bunch, and we had a laugh over beers and nibbles that he'd layed on. Tomorrow I will ride with them for a bit, out the other side of Texas into New Mexico. But first, I've a feeling that they've lined up a couple of beers with my name on in the bar downstairs - gotta go!
Today's route and more photos:
Today's Mileage: 242
Total Trip Mileage: 1264
They say that Elvis used to stay here when passing through - then again lots of places say that!
I packed up, had breakfast and then wandered over to the Route 66 Museum for it's opening time of 9. There was no sign of life. Then it dawned on me; it is Sunday today, and the museum doesn't open until 1 on a Sunday. Well I couldn't hang around for 4 hours, so I reluctantly had to give it a miss.
The weather did not look like getting any better, but I set off taking the old Route 66 roads. I soon decided that this was not the best idea today, the worn out concrete surface was slick and slippery, and a couple of times the back wheel started to slide out on bends. Discretion got the better of me - I could do without any more buttock-clenching moments - and I decided that I should take the interstate for a bit until the weather dried up.
This was disappointing, but it did mean that I made good time. Once on the Interstate I set the cruise control (that's right, this thing has cruise control!) to 70, and slabbed it through the remainder of Oklahoma, and into Texas.
Through this last part of Oklahoma the land had been flat for as far as the eye could see in all directions, but entering Texas, things started to change to a more rugged terrain, which was much more interesting to look at. I had hoped that the weather would also improve on entering Texas, but that wouldn't happen for a while yet.
Texas landscape
A reminder that if you get caught short out here, don't just nip behind a bush!
I did make a couple of detours off the Interstate though when I spotted this old, but restored gas station in McLean:
And also this deliberately leaning water tower in Grants:
By now, things had started to improve weatherwise, and by the time I was 30 miles from Amarillo the clouds started to lift, then break up, and eventually disappear, leaving a nice sunny day with temperatures in the high 70s.
As I'd been on the freeway for most of today, I had made good time and arrived in Amarillo soon after lunchtime. Now, I've got to say that I had no problem finding Amarillo at all. It's pretty well sign posted, and I didn't have to stop to ask for directions once, so why Tony Christie had so much trouble getting here I just don't know.
I went straight to the hotel and was lucky that my room was ready. I'm staying at the Ambassador a rather nice hotel that Bob 'Croc' Lile booked for me at the special Route 66 rate of, yes, $66. As it was still early, and the weather was now good, I took a little side trip to Palo Duro Canyon, around 20 miles south. It was quite spectacular, but I suspect only a taster of what is to come later on the trip.
Also staying at the hotel tonight is a group of over 50 Aussies who are doing the trip, mostly in cars but also about 8 bikes. Croc had a reception for them this evening at his art gallery, and was kind enough to invite me along:: they seem like a good bunch, and we had a laugh over beers and nibbles that he'd layed on. Tomorrow I will ride with them for a bit, out the other side of Texas into New Mexico. But first, I've a feeling that they've lined up a couple of beers with my name on in the bar downstairs - gotta go!
Today's route and more photos:
Today's Mileage: 242
Total Trip Mileage: 1264
Sunday, 24 April 2011
Day 5: Tulsa to Clinton
So, fist of all, Happy St George's Day! I guess all of you back home will be out celebrating?
I survived my visit to the Blue Rose Bar last night. Friday night is bike night, so it was pretty lively, but as promised, all very friendly. The bar is built on the side of the Arkansas River, and has an outdoor terrace/bar where you can sit and eat whilst looking over the river. Myself and a few others put the world to rights over a few beers and a burger.
It was Good Friday, but Easter doesn't seem to be recognised here as much as it is at home. The kids were at school, and will be again on Easter Monday. Strange, given that I'm in the middle of the Bible belt.
I overslept this morning, probably due to the activities the night before, so was not away from the hotel until after 10. Today was about riding, and I didn't have too many stops planned en route. The weather was perfect: dry, warm (low 70s), and not too sunny. I made good progress, covering almost 100 miles before my first scheduled stop in Arcadia. This is home to the Round Barn, quite unique, and there were some pretty interesting exhibits inside.
Across from the barn was the Biker Shak (sic), advertising bikers' apparel and leathers. I wanted to get some lighter gloves, so paid them a visit to see if they had anything suitable. They did, they fitted OK, so I bought them, but not before a long chat about my trip and the Royal Wedding with the owner!
Speaking of which, the wedding is everywhere here. On the front of papers, on the TV, and everyone is talking about it. And to think I would be able to get away from it. No chance.
Here's some more from Arcadia:
It's nice to have confirmation that I'm on the right track!
A little further down the road, the other side of Arcadia was my lunch stop, Pops Soda Ranch. This is a newly built gas station and diner, is very distinctive, and offers around 500 different types of soda. Did you know there were that many? I didn't! Some Route 66 purists may not like the idea of this place as it's not traditional, but I think one has to move with the times, and it's good to see new ventures succeeding along the route. The locals seem to agree,as it was very busy; this is the first time I've had to wait for a table to become available.
Now it was time to push on. I mentioned that this the Bible belt - in fact one book describes it as the buckle of the belt. Throughout the day I was told that I would spend eternity in hell unless I mended my ways, and reminded that I had to pray today, by placards on the roadside. I guess they're put there by the many churches that line the way. I did pray that I would get safely to Clinton tonight, but not to a God that they would probably approve of!
Shortly later, I entered Oklahoma City, and and I have to agree with the song that, it's "mighty pretty" coming in through the State Capitol Park with the Capitol building right ahead, as I did. What is noticeable is that there are no skyscrapers; it's a very 'low' city, with no real skyline.
Eventually I did make it to Clinton safely, and sought out the Route 66 museum. Unfortunately, it had closed 5 minutes earlier, maybe God isn't happy with me after all? Not having booked a room for the night, I had been hoping for a recommendation at the museum, however I spotted the Trade Winds Inn over the road so I went to take a look. First impressions were not great, but the owner, Mr Patel, did have a room for me, and at $50 I thought I'd chance it. As it turns out, the room is pretty nice - certainly not the worst I've stayed in this trip by a long way. I guess somebody up there likes me.
Tomorrow I head for Texas, and meet up with Bob and a bunch of Ausies in Amarillo who have been travelling the route a day ahead of me in Mustangs. Should be fun!
More pictures and today's route (including many missed turns!):
Today's Mileage: 226
Total Trip Mileage: 1022
Funniest sign seen today: "Oklahama! The shopping cart was invented in this wonderful state". Hmmm
I survived my visit to the Blue Rose Bar last night. Friday night is bike night, so it was pretty lively, but as promised, all very friendly. The bar is built on the side of the Arkansas River, and has an outdoor terrace/bar where you can sit and eat whilst looking over the river. Myself and a few others put the world to rights over a few beers and a burger.
It was Good Friday, but Easter doesn't seem to be recognised here as much as it is at home. The kids were at school, and will be again on Easter Monday. Strange, given that I'm in the middle of the Bible belt.
I overslept this morning, probably due to the activities the night before, so was not away from the hotel until after 10. Today was about riding, and I didn't have too many stops planned en route. The weather was perfect: dry, warm (low 70s), and not too sunny. I made good progress, covering almost 100 miles before my first scheduled stop in Arcadia. This is home to the Round Barn, quite unique, and there were some pretty interesting exhibits inside.
Across from the barn was the Biker Shak (sic), advertising bikers' apparel and leathers. I wanted to get some lighter gloves, so paid them a visit to see if they had anything suitable. They did, they fitted OK, so I bought them, but not before a long chat about my trip and the Royal Wedding with the owner!
Here's some more from Arcadia:
A little further down the road, the other side of Arcadia was my lunch stop, Pops Soda Ranch. This is a newly built gas station and diner, is very distinctive, and offers around 500 different types of soda. Did you know there were that many? I didn't! Some Route 66 purists may not like the idea of this place as it's not traditional, but I think one has to move with the times, and it's good to see new ventures succeeding along the route. The locals seem to agree,as it was very busy; this is the first time I've had to wait for a table to become available.
Now it was time to push on. I mentioned that this the Bible belt - in fact one book describes it as the buckle of the belt. Throughout the day I was told that I would spend eternity in hell unless I mended my ways, and reminded that I had to pray today, by placards on the roadside. I guess they're put there by the many churches that line the way. I did pray that I would get safely to Clinton tonight, but not to a God that they would probably approve of!
Shortly later, I entered Oklahoma City, and and I have to agree with the song that, it's "mighty pretty" coming in through the State Capitol Park with the Capitol building right ahead, as I did. What is noticeable is that there are no skyscrapers; it's a very 'low' city, with no real skyline.
Eventually I did make it to Clinton safely, and sought out the Route 66 museum. Unfortunately, it had closed 5 minutes earlier, maybe God isn't happy with me after all? Not having booked a room for the night, I had been hoping for a recommendation at the museum, however I spotted the Trade Winds Inn over the road so I went to take a look. First impressions were not great, but the owner, Mr Patel, did have a room for me, and at $50 I thought I'd chance it. As it turns out, the room is pretty nice - certainly not the worst I've stayed in this trip by a long way. I guess somebody up there likes me.
Tomorrow I head for Texas, and meet up with Bob and a bunch of Ausies in Amarillo who have been travelling the route a day ahead of me in Mustangs. Should be fun!
More pictures and today's route (including many missed turns!):
Today's Mileage: 226
Total Trip Mileage: 1022
Funniest sign seen today: "Oklahama! The shopping cart was invented in this wonderful state". Hmmm
Saturday, 23 April 2011
Day 4: Springfield to Tulsa
The thunder storms rumbled on for most of the night, but had cleared up by the morning, and it was dry again. The hotel I was at is an original Route 66 style motor court motel, where the rooms open out on to the car park, and you can park right outside your room. As it was so wet when I arrived last night I went straight in to get dry. This morning I had a better chance to look around. The hotel has been refurbished to a good standard and was fine for a nights stay.
My room is the one on the right hand end
After a while I reached Carthage, and stopped for breakfast at a little roadside cafe. It was now very warm, and I knew I shouldn't have bothered with layers today. I made use of the restroom to remove my base layer. I had a quick walk around town, taking some pictures, and ran across this building in the centre of town. They sure do like their fancy courthouses in Missouri!
I also came across this:
This tow truck is apparently the inspiration behind Mator, the tow trunk in the Cars movie. In fact it was called Mator, until Disney made them change the name once the film was released. What a cheek!
Carthage is clearly past its prime, like many towns along the Route, which were bypassed when the Interstate system was built. But it does still have a nice courthouse!
One thing that has been revived is the Drive-In movie theatre, still showing movies 3 days per week.
A little further on down the road after passing through Joplin I entered Kansas. Route 66 just clips its corner, and there's actually only a dozen or so miles until you leave and enter Oklahoma. However, there is a very active Route 66 Association of Kansas. Here are its headquarters:
... complete with pink flamingos out front, also available for sale inside!
The old fella in the shop chatted for a long time about his time in the war, and how he was on Omaha Beach during the Allied invasions. Quite a hero in his time.
By now the temperature had soared, and the gauge on my bike was showing almost 90F. The 'all-season' gloves I was wearing clearly weren't designed for all seasons in this part of the world, and I decided that I would leave them off for a while, as I was starting to overheat.
Pretty soon I crossed the state line into Oklahoma. I had taken a lot of time over the numerous stops I'd made, and so it was looking like I'd be in Tulsa just in time for the rush hour. None the less, I had to stop and take a picture of this, Chelsea, Oklahoma, population 2136. I wonder how often they update those signs?
Very different from West London!
It was now unbearably hot riding in my gore-tex jacket, that had protected me from the cold and wet in Chicago, but was too much for the improving weather, even with all the vents unzipped, and so at my next fuel stop I changed into my Airtex jacket to try too get some ventilation going. It did make a big difference over the next part of the journey.
Heading south-west, my next stop was the Galloway Totem Pole Park - home of the largest totem pole in the world:
It took Ed Galloway 11 tears to construct, is 90feet tall, and 54 inches in diameter at the base. It took over 130 tons of sand, rocks, cement and steel to complete.
Standing in the park I could hear rumbles of thunder in the distance, so after buying some postcards in the gift shop, it was time to move on - I didn't want a repeat of yesterday's experience!
However, about 30 miles from Tulsa the black clouds had moved overhead and it looked very murky in the distance. I knew that if it did start to rain again heavily I would be soaked in minutes, as my Airtex jack is anything but waterproof. I pulled over at a huge RV dealership to prepare for the worst. They had a BBQ going though, and invited me in for a drink and a hotdog - an offer I couldn't refuse. Hardy types, these RVers. I have now met a lot of different people over the past few days, but not one of them has been anything but friendly and helpful. It confirms my belief that, basically, people are good.
Today my luck was in, and the storm decided to inflict itself on someone else. My last stop of the day was at the Blue Whale water park, built by a man for his wife who collected whales. Go figure. Due to health and safety reasons, this no longer operates as a water park. I don't think Wet 'n' Wild would have much to worry about if it did though. It is however a Route 66 icon.
I had already booked a room for the night tonight, but driving into Tulsa I passed a the Hard Rock Hotel and Casino, and wished I was staying there. I'm sure Gillian would have been envious if I had.
Dinner tonight will be at the Blue Rose Bar by the riverside. A friendly bikers pub, I've been told. Let's hope it doesn't turn out to be a Wild Hogs type experience.
To see the route taken and more pictures click below:
Today's Mileage: 228
Total Trip Mileage: 794
Funniest place name seen today: Spunky Creek, (snigger, will I ever grow up?). Unfortunately I was unable to stop and photograph the sign.
My riding gear had dried out overnight and so I got myself ready and headed out of Springfield. Once out of town the riding was, once again, very good. The landscape is very similar to home, lots of greenery and trees, and quite undulating. I could have been riding through Northumberland, except it was warm!
Along the way I came across another disused gas station, in the middle of nowhere. Someone must maintain these, as this is in good condition, although no longer dispensing gas.
I also came across this:
Carthage is clearly past its prime, like many towns along the Route, which were bypassed when the Interstate system was built. But it does still have a nice courthouse!
One thing that has been revived is the Drive-In movie theatre, still showing movies 3 days per week.
A little further on down the road after passing through Joplin I entered Kansas. Route 66 just clips its corner, and there's actually only a dozen or so miles until you leave and enter Oklahoma. However, there is a very active Route 66 Association of Kansas. Here are its headquarters:
The old fella in the shop chatted for a long time about his time in the war, and how he was on Omaha Beach during the Allied invasions. Quite a hero in his time.
By now the temperature had soared, and the gauge on my bike was showing almost 90F. The 'all-season' gloves I was wearing clearly weren't designed for all seasons in this part of the world, and I decided that I would leave them off for a while, as I was starting to overheat.
Pretty soon I crossed the state line into Oklahoma. I had taken a lot of time over the numerous stops I'd made, and so it was looking like I'd be in Tulsa just in time for the rush hour. None the less, I had to stop and take a picture of this, Chelsea, Oklahoma, population 2136. I wonder how often they update those signs?
It was now unbearably hot riding in my gore-tex jacket, that had protected me from the cold and wet in Chicago, but was too much for the improving weather, even with all the vents unzipped, and so at my next fuel stop I changed into my Airtex jacket to try too get some ventilation going. It did make a big difference over the next part of the journey.
Heading south-west, my next stop was the Galloway Totem Pole Park - home of the largest totem pole in the world:
It took Ed Galloway 11 tears to construct, is 90feet tall, and 54 inches in diameter at the base. It took over 130 tons of sand, rocks, cement and steel to complete.
Standing in the park I could hear rumbles of thunder in the distance, so after buying some postcards in the gift shop, it was time to move on - I didn't want a repeat of yesterday's experience!
However, about 30 miles from Tulsa the black clouds had moved overhead and it looked very murky in the distance. I knew that if it did start to rain again heavily I would be soaked in minutes, as my Airtex jack is anything but waterproof. I pulled over at a huge RV dealership to prepare for the worst. They had a BBQ going though, and invited me in for a drink and a hotdog - an offer I couldn't refuse. Hardy types, these RVers. I have now met a lot of different people over the past few days, but not one of them has been anything but friendly and helpful. It confirms my belief that, basically, people are good.
Today my luck was in, and the storm decided to inflict itself on someone else. My last stop of the day was at the Blue Whale water park, built by a man for his wife who collected whales. Go figure. Due to health and safety reasons, this no longer operates as a water park. I don't think Wet 'n' Wild would have much to worry about if it did though. It is however a Route 66 icon.
I had already booked a room for the night tonight, but driving into Tulsa I passed a the Hard Rock Hotel and Casino, and wished I was staying there. I'm sure Gillian would have been envious if I had.
Dinner tonight will be at the Blue Rose Bar by the riverside. A friendly bikers pub, I've been told. Let's hope it doesn't turn out to be a Wild Hogs type experience.
To see the route taken and more pictures click below:
Today's Mileage: 228
Total Trip Mileage: 794
Funniest place name seen today: Spunky Creek, (snigger, will I ever grow up?). Unfortunately I was unable to stop and photograph the sign.
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